The knowledge and expertise to design sarees in this style lies primarily with the patriarch of the family. Knowing what's possible at all, how long it will take, and who is able to do it is a skill in itself, for the work is exceedingly complicated. First the design is drawn out on paper to convey the pattern to the weavers. The weavers then lay out the warp or weft threads to be patterned on a frame, which has to be just the right size to achieve a repeated pattern. Then the threads are tied up. This is usually with very tightly wound on strings or even bicycle inner tubes for longer sections of resist. The threads are then dyed, sometimes in multiple colors baths - which require separate tie ups. After final washing and drying and sizing. The weft threads are then wound onto spools for later weaving and the warp threads, which are mostly seen in border ornaments, are tied onto the loom and wound around the warp beams. "The typical temple border is created by eye and hand and years of experience. Two weavers working in sync, each create the temple border on their side, interlacing the black and red threads, and tossing the red shuttle with lightning speed between themselves. Two sets of bamboo sticks criss-crossed and tied function like a stretcher bar to maintain the uniform width of the cloth." Bomkai was the original sari of India and was created with very rudimentary looms in coarse cotton. These sarees are still being made in some places like Siminoi, Kotpad and Habaspuri. As the technology has advanced Bomkai has come to mean something quite different. The modern Bomkai is a flannelly heavy gauge cotton sarees woven with complicated jacquard machinery. These are grand textiles with elaborate supplementary thread worked borders and pallus, and often combine ikat work for textile beauty that will take your breath away